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Somehow we ended up (upon their insistence) in the coach cockpit with the drivers sipping Yerba Mate (pronounced "mattay") from a hollowed gourd stuffed with dried leaves through a bambilla, a perforated metal straw. It´s strong and bitter and is the local equivalent of the
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Arabic hubbly-bubbly in that it´s passed around. The driver - deadringer for Oliver Hardy - was screaching along at breakneck speed overtaking lorries while drinking his tea and having a ciggie. The guide book says if you´re invited to drink mate, you should always accept - it´s a special Argentinian custom. Well, we wanted to do the right thing!
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