Our last day in Patagonia, I suggested a final hike, to which Anita hissed, "you mean a bloody TREK up the sheer face of another poxy mountain?!" Understandably a bit reluctant to go after the last crippling experience, she gave in because there was a minimum of 2 people required to go and no-one else had signed up (Anita : "ooh there's a surprise!"). 
We trekked through luscious woodland, across babbling brooks and carpets of yellow flowers. The trees were draped in what's known as "old man's beard", a wispy draping parasite which feels like a loofah and doesn't harm the host tree.
Goodness knows how a London bus got here. This town is named after the great hero, San Martin el Libertador. Born in 1778, he served in Spanish armies from the age of 15 and later joined the supporters of S. American independence in Buenos Aires, replacing Belgrano as commander. Through his brilliance and cunning and in true Hannibal style, he crossed the Andes in 20 days with over 7,250 men, 3,600 mules and 1,200 horses, defeating the Spanish with a conclusive victory at Maipu in Chile. He then led his forces on to Peru where he negotiated a truce with the Spanish, securing independence for S. America against Spanish rule in 1818. Every town has a statue or a street named after him.
The lakes here are stunning with crystal-clear water and clean enough to drink, straight off the Andes with abundant bird and fish life and hardly a soul in sight. After the safety brief, we powered off enthusiastically and the guide asked us to slow down, saying however that we were "muy impresionante!"
