Ciao!

Well, "all good things...", our joint journey is over and considering the dimensions of Argentina (top to bottom is the equivalent of London to Athens), "we 'aven't 'alf covered some ground!" It's been like 5 different countries with such noticable changes in climate, landscape, culture, flora/fauna, people and activities.
But the one common denominator throughout has been the people - wonderful, kind, open and friendly - we never saw any ugliness or dispute. The Argentinians are gracious, curious and really helpful - they love to have a laugh, too. In spite of the savage blows and inequity they've suffered at the hands of tawdry and corrupt governments, they're surprisingly optimistic and courageous. So it's "don't cry for me our Anita", (note the huge weight loss in a month - trousers now a lot looser!), Fi stays another 3 weeks (timing return with the blooming of the daffodils) and well, for now, it's over and out.

Tango in the Park

If a woman were seen stroking her foot up a man's leg almost to his crotch and then being dragged along with only the tips of her stiletto shoes touching the ground as she clings on to his shoulders staring passionately into his eyes wearing a slinky skirt split up to her hip, they would probably be carted off by the police. But here it's an everyday sight as you sit and enjoy a cold beer in the sunshine.

Recoleta Park

From San Telmo, we took the bus to Recoleta, the barrio with a distinct Parisian feel. Buenos Aires is simply a fandango fabuloso (party central) every Sunday. The parks are full of picnic-ers, live bands, jugglers, tumblers, people blowing bubbles, dancing, merrymaking and performers in outrageous costumes. FUN meter in the red (with no yobs, drunks or chavs!)

Strolling through San Telmo

San Telmo Market

Back in Buenos Aires, it's Sunday, the day that the barrio of San Telmo comes alive with an antiques and bric-a-brac market along a half-mile street of endless fun and fancy goods. There's beautiful hand-crafted jewellery and great leather. No pushing or shoving, just lots of live



music and old men, eyes closed, playing seductive tango tunes on battered accordians. Wonderful vibe!

Arrechea Waterfall, Iguazu

This small waterfall and pool was the site of the main Iguazu falls thousands of years ago - they've since receded along the main riverbed due to erosion.

Macuco Trail

After a long, sweaty, sticky stroll through the jungle, we were rewarded with a dip in this pool, the only place you can swim in Iguazu Park. As we had no bathing gear, we just swam in our dresses.

Wildlife

There's rich wildlife here, more than 430 species of birds (saw toucans with huge orange cartoon beaks), 70 species of mammals (eg pumas, tapirs, capuchin and howler monkeys) and friendly coati with their spriped tails. We took a long walk through the jungle and saw electric blue butterflies the size of our hand and an alarmingly large lizard. The spiders were big, too, and as we walked along we sometimes collided with their webs and had to fight to get them off. If someone had seen us from a distance they'd have thought we were having some strange fit! One monster spider (with segmented limbs ie forearm, upper arm and deltoid) was devouring a poor flapping butterfly. Younger sis wanted to catapult a stone at it like Denis the Menace and break the web but older sis squeezed her arm restrainingly and said, "the spiders have a right to be here, too, and they're an important part of the ecosystem"....and we moved gently on.

Garganta del Diablo (Devil's Throat)

This is the park's centrepiece and is indescribably beautiful, an impressive mixture of noise, views and energy.





There's so much water here at the moment after excessive rainfall that we couldn't see anywhere near the bottom for spray and mist.

Moving Water

Circuito Inferior

A series of steep stairs and walkways with superb views took us down to the water's edge and up close to one section of the falls. The sounds were thunderous and we got drenched but didn't care in our quick-drying, polyester dresses!

Circuito Superior

This trail took us along the westernmost line of the falls allowing us to see them from above.

Anita at Iguazu Falls

Spectacular Iguazu Falls

The Falls in Action

Iguazu Falls

If ever there were an interplanetary beauty contest (a sort of Miss Universe for Locations), Earth's entry would be Iguazu. Nowhere encapsulates the magic and abundance of this world in such style: huge irridescent butterflies, billions of gallons of tumbling water, thunder, cool mist enshrouding vivid colours of ancient rocks and forest. Gigantic dragon flies hover in the spray, huge condors soar overhead, bright toucans fly acoss billowing white cumulus in a blue blue sky, the whole scene encircled by shiny bright rainbows. Our lives are without doubt richer for having seen this magnificent place.

Arriving at Iguazu Falls

With no washbag or clean clothes, Anita's body odour was face-crumpling, her one outfit minging in the heat and humidity. So the Guide, unable to carry on without nose pegs, marched us into a shop and we bought these 2 polyester dresses for a tenner which we wore the whole time - even went swimming in them at the Falls - they turned out to be just the ticket because they dried in seconds. Fortunately our luggage was at Iguazu airport when we checked in to leave two days later.

Hito Tres Fronteras (3 Borders Landmark)

You can see 3 countries and the Iguazu River from this point. Young kids were hawking orchid plants and little rolls of the local chipita bread made from mandioc root (very tasty).

We're standing in Argentina with impressive views over the rivers and neighbouring Brazil on the right and Paraguay on the left.

From Salta to Iguazu

To save time, we opted to fly from Salta to Iguazu rather than take the bus which would've taken 24 hours. DISASTER! The airline lost our bags so for two days at Iguazu Falls we had only our backpacks. Our travel clothes were filthy and far too warm for the swelteringly hot subtropical climate. While waiting for our bags to arrive, we took a stroll up an attracitve costanera (coastal path) along the Rio Iguazu, past a small port where boats were leaving for cruises to Paraguay and on up to a spectacular viewpoint high above the meeting of the two rivers, Parana and Iguazu, known as the Hito Tres Fronteras (3 borders landmark). The tropical flowers are lovely - they really are almost as good as the silk ones in John Lewis!

Mama Paca Restaurant

Thanks to the 'Footprint' guidebook, we found this charming and cheap Spanish eatery serving mouthwatering fresh fish. The waiter, more bull than matador, was a jolly Spanish telly-tubby who kept the wine coming - a delicious, crisp Torrontes (white) from Cafayate for 5 quid a bottle.

Argentinian Tradition

Two very typical expressions of Salta - folkloric costumes and allegedly the best empenadas in Argentina - we had no argument with that - the selection of beer, chicken and cheese tasted even better with the local beer.

Salta's Main Plaza and Cathedral

Now in the northwest of Argentina in Salta, one of the country's most charismatic and historical cities. It's the least "Europeanised" and home to most of the country's indigenous people. This is the Cathedral in the central plaza painted in a very attractive pastel pink and beautifully illuminated at night.

Wild Waters - Fancy a Dip?

A really red river coloured by all the surrounding minerals, particularly clay and iron. Rafting here would be more like red-water rafting rather than white.

Argentina's Monument Valley

This is Argentina's very own Monument Valley, interesting shapes formed by years of wind and rain erosion.

El Anfiteatro (Amphitheatre)

A spot of live music helped us appreciate the acoustics in this natural amphitheatre.

Garganta del Diablo (Devil's Throat)

Rock Formations

Labelled imaginatively with the names of the things they resemble, these striking rocks have been eroded over the millenia by wind and rain. The one on the left is the 'Sinking Titanic' and on the right, the ´Castles'.

Cafayate Gorge

This landscape is a delicious feast of colour : chocolate-coloured mountains, raspberry-ripple strata, pistachio and treacle peaks and rhubarb and cream, all on a burnt treacle platter.


We think this sign means, "If you look without seeing, the ground will seem no more than just the ground." (Our interpretation : look beyond...see the beauty and intelligence in Nature)

Quebrada de las Conchas (Gorge of Shells)

Heading south from Salta to Cafayate, we drove through this amazing stretch of road following the longest river in Argentina that flows into the Atlantic Ocean north of Buenos Aires.

Maimara

Maimara is a tranquil oasis village with green fields of onion and garlic set in contrast with this backdrop of richly coloured marbled rock known as 'La Paleta del Pintor'. The colours in the strata are formed by many different minerals

including iron, sulphur, quartz, copper, clay and even bodies of old crustacea (it used to be under water). There's a huge cemetery on the hillside, always brightly decorated at Easter.

Tilcara

Tilcara is the site of an important pre-Hispanic settlement and this is the restored hilltop fortress with magnificent panoramic views of the gorge. These pictures don't capture the spirit of the place which was truly palpable - we knew we were on a site of extraordinary beauty and ancient wisdom. In their humble adobe dwellings, they made food, jewellery, pots and ate the local hallucinogenic plants - can you imagine what a bad day it must've been when they saw the Spanish army approaching, brandishing crosses and swords?!

Tilcara

A very important archeological site where the indigenous people lived before the Incas came in the 1400's. (It reminded us a bit of Scara Brae in the Orkneys.) Scholars from Buenos Aires university visit frequently to research this early culture.

Menu in Humahuaca

Might look and sound a bit "mud-hut" but the food was scrumptious and nutritious. We fancied the Goat Stew but weren't too sure about the "morron" that came with it.